As Hans had never visited Singers before, Burney put together a few landmarks that were an introduction to the city.
Several of our rally friends had visited Singapore from Puteri Marina. We heard stories of taxi fares of $100 to cross the bridge to Singapore which included the Immigration paperwork and we heard less expensive options such as public transport. We were indeed on a budget and unlike others could not face blowing a month’s worth spending money on a few days.
With a little research, we became public transport fans.
Timing our crossing to avoid the day commuters from Johor to Singapore, we took the Causeway Link bus from Customs and Immigration to the border crossing. After walking the airconditioned hallways of “no man’s land” we had our passports stamped in Singapore and climbed back onto the same bus which had arrived through the CIQ (Customs, Immigration Quarantine) checkpoint to continue our journey to the MRT (Mass Rapid Transport).
Total cost 4 Malay Ringet, about $1.30
Singapore has a good transport system. The MRT which is at times an underground metro, then, a light rail when it exits the busy business areas and comes above ground. Similar to Australia, we purchased translink passes but for $5 and topped “them up”. These we used for bus, train and MRT. These were cheaper than individual paper tickets AND we could have the remainder of the money refunded when we left Singapore.
So with a couple of metro changes we arrived near our hotel.
Burney had found a more affordable hotel, in an expensive city, but heading slightly outside of the CBD and into the older section of Singapore, Gelang.
Gelang Road, Shophouses
Gelang
One of the distinctive hallmarks of Geylang architecture is the preservation of its shophouses. These were micro-businesses founded by Malay, Indian and Chinese entrepreneurs who back in the late 1800’s seized start-up opportunities. Since the Gelang Road shophouses were protected from redevelopment, the area was relatively untouched by urban projects and high rise developments and spared from the gentrification process. Most of the old businesses were gone and replaced by very interesting restaurants. That was where we dined sometimes. Come evenings the place was pumping. Traffic was heavy, a sea of taxis flash red “hired” lights, scooters zip in and out, and pedestrians, us, cut jagged paths through the mess. There was barely room to walk on the pavement, with the shops’ wares spilling out, the plastic tables from restaurants and the sheer volume of people trying to get from one place to another in muggy evening heat.
Geylang Road shops
Once upon a time, Bugis Street was Singapore’s premier red light district but the crown has long since passed to Geylang. So apart from the good food there’s other reasons why people flock to the area. Fortunately, Singapore was very safe. Burney’s research said that the area have plenty of CTV cameras and some of the establishments were legal.
Throughout the length of Geylang Road, there were lanes (or “lorongs” or Lor. in the local Malay language) that extend perpendicularly from the main road.The odd-numbered lorongs were said to usually be full of restaurants, while even-numbered ones were allegedly reserved for establishments of ill repute.
Along one of those lanes was our hotel, Lorong 8.
An even number?
Yes, there may have been a brothel on our street.
Legal brothels have their house number written in red
Okay there was a couple of girls that may have been using the hotel but from the 6th floor we had a nice view of a local park, crisp sheets, bathroom, wifi and air conditioning.
What else do you need. We were back out the door and exploring…..
Raffles.
That name occurs often throughout Singers (Singapore).
Sir Stamford Raffles first landed in Singapore in 1819, whereupon he started developing a British trading settlement. Hence, he was the founder of the modern Singapore. Numerous places and institutions have been named after him, such as the Raffles College, Raffles Institution, Stamford House, Raffles City, Raffles Place, marina, street, boulevard ….
But it was the Raffles Hotel where we were headed. Back in 1887, it was a 10 room bungalow on the beach facing the South China Sea. Now it’s known as the grand old dame of Singapore. Buildings were added and eventually the original bungalow was replaced in 1899 with a 2 level colonial building. By 1915, it was in its hey day with an endless list of famous writers and artists frequenting the The Long Bar, if not actually residing there. While most people “just must” have a fluffy pink Singapore Sling in the Long Bar, we kept the $27 (each) for dinner at Satay Street. We did wander the arcade of boutique shops, the gardens and Palm Court bar. With over 100 suites and 8 restaurants, the establishment now covered a whole block.
Palm Court Bar
Palm Court
Music pagoda in the garden
Wandering towards the Downtown Core, seemed to be on an endless series of connecting walkways through hotels, shopping malls and food courts.
Eventually, we reached the esplanade where yet another Singapore icon was located.
Merlion with an old ferry
Merlion was always more or less synonymous with modern Singapore.
A mythical creature with head of a lion and the body of a fish.
Once it stood elsewhere but in 2002, it was relocated to its present position before the Fullerton Hotel on the Marina Bay waterfront.
The hotel was formerly a post office in 1920’s and also housed a few other departmental offices.
It too underwent change with major renovations in 2000 but maintained it’s heritage.
Wedged between the highrise of the CBD and the waterfront, the pair struggled to be seen.
Fullerton Hotel
Old and new sky lines
Nearby was a floating soccer field called The Float @ Marina Bay. Logical.
Presented as a temporary replacement for the Singapore National Stadium while it got rebuilt into a modern stadium, it has only occasionally been used for games.
The Float @ the Bay
The Helix Bridge
To access the rest of the bay, we crossed the Helix Bridge.
Purpose built for pedestrians, it linked a ” necklace” of attractions and connected an 11km promenade.
Along the bridge were viewing platforms.
ArtScience Museum with the Marine Bay Sands and Skypark Resort behind.
One of the views was the ArtScience Museum which looked like a baseball glove, but was apparently lotus inspired. It housed many galleries and was only opened earlier this year.
This structure was part of the Marina Bay Sands and Skypark resort.
The size of that casino property was outrageous.
With over 2,000 rooms in the hotel towers and the world’s largest atrium casino plus a the bullet shaped Skypark with infinity pool, it demanded attention.
We had toyed with the idea of visiting the 57th floor and taking some photos of the view.
However, just to visit the pool bar commanded a $23 entrance fee.
Gardens by the Bay
Instead we decided to just wander through their public walkways and visit the Gardens By the Bay. An esplanade of joggers, cyclists and fitness walkers shared broad paths. Branching off were some attractions which housed large cooled conservatories. The Cloud Forest and Flower Dome held great displays but we were more interested in walking the paths and boardwalks along the gardens and lakes. There were apparently 40 sculptures scattered over that huge area. To see them all would have been a tour in itself. It truly was a showpiece of horticulture and garden artistry. (After winning a competition in 2006; namely Grant Associates and Gustafson Porter, both from the UK, were responsible for Singapores award winning addition)
Dragonflies
Kingfisher sculpture
Taking a picture of you, taking a picture of me
It was the grove of Supertrees that drew us like a magnet. These immense sculptures were now growing succulents and air-feeding plants. We had timed our walk for sundown. As the sky darkened, the trees became subtly illuminated. Walking along the elevated walkways we had wide views over the Singapore Straits and the port, come sunset.
Supertree Grove at dusk
Supertrees
healthy plants growing on the “trunk”
Tree top walk
Tankers in the Straits
Singapore skyline
The port with their “Imperial Walkers”
Whilst passing an adjacent Supertree, we noticed lights and movement around an upper level.
We later found that it was a restaurant the IndoChine.
Nightly after 7pm those huge trees became illuminated with colour. While music played a choreography, LEDs flashed and the colour and composition oscillated.
It was spectacular, and spectacularly free as we lay upon the grass watching the lightshow.
Lightshow
Constantly changing
Thoughts did go to how Singapore generates it’s electricity. Now that Burney knows, she’s not very enchanted. Palm Oil from questionable companies. Why not solar power? We were on the Equator! Moving right along….
After the show, we followed the crowd to the closest MRT and headed to Station Downtown.
Archive photo 1960
Lau Pat Sat market
Another Singapore landmark was Lau Pat Sat.
Once a 19th century market place with an octagonal roof, it was now a big food court.
The roof, soaring arches, wrought iron fretwork and columns created a very open breezy space.
But it was outside on Boon Tat Street where Burney was headed.
Lau Pat Sat (inside)
Blocked to the traffic, covered with picnic tables and plastic chairs, Boon Tat became Satay Street.
The alluring aroma of charcoal bar-b-ques being furiously fanned was the cue.
Beef, chicken, lamb and seafood sizzled.
Sweet spicy peanut sauce and a couple of cucumber slices accompanied our skewered meat and cold beer.
Hmmm, dinner on a big day out and then home, to the hotel.
Satay Street
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