“Load em Up, Move em Out”

Those of you who have been following our blogs have seen us change boats. First Brahminy took us into retirement and along the Queensland coast.

Brahminy (1) at Mooloolaba

Then Brahminy Too opened up Sth-east Asia to our adventures.

After 5 years of the live-aboard life, we have embarked on a new journey. Back in Australia, in Darwin, Hans bought a car and trailer into which we piled our belongings.

“Should we call this Brahminy T(h)ree? “, Burney said. A tree change for our third voyage?

Move em out!!

We have headed from Darwin towards Brisbane taking a scenic route via Kakadu and the Overlanders Way to the Matilda Way and onto Carnarvon Gorge.
Simultaneously,  Burney had started a journey of a different type. Weight loss and health gaining was the goal. A scary liver function test result testified to many years of sundowners. Too much alcohol and nibbles had taken it’s toll. Now 30 kg lighter, it’s a little easier climbing up to lookout escarpments. The following blog posts will be of our visits to national parks and outback towns. However,  if you’re interested in Burney’s new mission which is to inspire others to be the best version of themselves through clean eating and improved gut health, join her Facebook site: Get Gutsy with Burney.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/970449153079726/

Visiting Flores. Before shot

http://www.gutsyhealth.com.au

25 kg gone

 

Visiting Kakadu. 30 kg gone and still counting…

 

Welcome to Tipperary Waters Marina

Allow me to introduce Danielle Matthews, better known as Dani

Perth born and bred and a woman with a different style of employment.

Sitting comfortably in a marina

When we had decided to sail to Darwin, we did the research on the various anchorages, marinas and mooring options. After settling on Tipperary Waters Marina, Hans sent off an email from Indonesia arranging a booking. This was our first contact with Dani. There were to be a few more communications as we postponed then changed our plans completely deciding to go to East Timor for a while. Not only did Dani prove flexible, she responded with: ”See you in Dili”. The Darwin to Dili Race (see previous blogs) arrived with Dani, husband Michael and 3 generations of family on sv Shindig’n. As we had been allowed to join the rally/race festivities, we spent time with Dani and co while on a city tour. Our knowledge of Darwin was old or non-existent and so we appreciated gleaning as much as we could from her.  Managing the marina bookings was only part of Dani’s duties; this amazing woman was also the Lockmaster. One of the only female Lockmaster in Darwin. (Possibly the first?)

Once comfortably ensconced in our berth at Tipperary Waters Marina, we came to have regular contact with thr Marina Manager: – Sundowners on each other’s boats, information gathering, tall tales and much laughter. With selling Brahminy Too we had a couple of trips in and out of the lock system with Dani operating the lock gates and securing our lines. I had absolute confidence in her easy manner and efficiency. “No problem”, “You’re right” “You’ll be fine” were comforting words to hear when doing something you’ve not before experienced.

World ARC yachts

Upon returning from an overnight anchorage in Fannie Bay, I asked Dani about all the yachts in the marina. Every berth was full. It was the ARC boats, many dressed all over with flags.

The company was formed by Jimmy Cornell following the success of the very first ARC (Atlantic Rally for Cruisers) transatlantic rally in 1986. These days it has various itineraries, one of which was World ARC whereby cruisers could make a full circumnavigation or sail a half rally.

Like us these yachts were required to dock at the Quarantine wharf for the hull treatment, then moved to either Cullen Bay Marina or Tipperary Waters.

Whist in Darwin among other sights, they visited Adelaide River in Kakadu and travelled on a different style of boat to see the wildlife.

Yes crocodiles were involved. However come Tuesday September 4^th, it was time for the fleet to move on. Destination: Lombok. I asked Danni if I might be able to watch her at work….

Our lockmaster at the levers

Our Lockmaster’s day started early, regardless that she had also organised a briefing and  farewell event, the previous evening. She had 14 vessels to assist and with the Darwin tides, time was of the essence. Peaking over her shoulder, I saw a list of boats organised according to vessel draft. The first yacht with a draft of 1.68m went through between 7.15 and 7.30am with a tide height of 4.44m for Darwin waters but not necessarily where we were up the Francis Bay. The 13^th and last vessel with a draft of 2.75m went through the pen ahead of schedule at 10am instead of 10.45am. They were all expected to be at the starting line near Stokes Hill Wharf by 11am and no later than midday. “Plenty of time”, Dani said as she started to smile for the first time that morning. She had been incredibly focused, taking calls on the two-way, checking that the “linesmen” were ready and then handling the levers. The whole time exchanging pleasantries with the departing crews. So what happened to the 14^th boat? Left behind. A delivery of sails had not arrived as planned so they were benched for another day in the marina. No, wait. A quick drive out to take possession of said sails and the 14^th vessel made it over the line before midday to qualify for the Lombok leg of the race!

It was heart warming to know that the ARC boats would be contributing to the relief work occurring on the recently damaged Lombok. Dani had assisted in connecting the race participants with the Red Cross organisation working with the locals Indonesians.

Fair seas and see you next time round (the world)

So I asked Dani about her experience as a Lockmaster and learnt the following:

Prior to taking on the position 12 months previous she had not worked a lock before, but she did have a 60 ton Crane Operators license and therefore had experience with hydraulics. “I’m a methodical person” she said then began to point to 2 sets of levers: Sluice, Latch and Gate for one pen side and the same for the outer wall. There above was a depth reading gauge. “See it’s just 123, 321” Yea right? The Sluice lever,moved up, neutral or down to regulate the water intake. Pens doors opened and closed with moving the Gate levers and the Latch locked the pen gate in place. On a normal day Dani did both the lock operations and took the lines from the penned vessel however given the volume and speed required on Tuesday she had 2 assistants on the pen walls. Said “linesmen” were the marina development owner, Geoff and his son-in-law, Kevin. (Originally a fishing boat berth, Geoff obviously had vision and converted the area into a locked marina with residential accommodation and a business precinct.) Dani remained at the controls in the rather hot little lockmaster’s office perched above it all.

Watching the linesmen

Geoff and Kevin take the lines

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So how does a woman get a job like this? “Right place, right time and the balls to apply”. Well I’m assuming balls weren’t required however having the gumption no doubt came from her can-do attitude and a broad past work experience including, crane operator, professional cook for a very large events centre in Perth and running a butcher’s shop. As Lockmaster, Dani also monitored the marina water levels and freshness and as Marina Manager Dani shuffled the paperwork for yacht bookings, insurance requirements and invoicing. Unattended vessels were regularly checked and if necessary prepared for the serious top-end wet season that has had its share of cyclones. Marina correspondence, post, deliveries and manning the VHF radio all fall under her job description.  So if you’re coming this way and you’re considering a marina, you’ll be in good hands. Say hi to Dani!

The biggest yacht has a very wide beam squeezing through the entrance/exit

Deepest draft

 

 

Aug Blog

Brahminy Too “For Sale”

As the month of August draws to a close, it’s time to glance back and reflect. Where did the month go? We have been rather hard working getting our ole gal looking her gorgeous self, ready for sale… While it’s the end of our chapter in her long life of adventures on the seas, she’ll be off again, in the near future sharing the joy with new owners.

Yellow Q Flag

End of July.
After arriving at the Border Force clearance dock, Hybreasail soon took up the berth directly behind us. As we waited for the officials to come and inspect our boat and its contents, we watched with fascination the comings and goings of the Cullen Bay Marina. All the marinas in the Darwin area were situated behind locks due to the huge tidal variations. The Quarantine dock was located directly before entry to Cullen Bay Marina locks. Once the clearing-in procedures were completed, we then had a visit from the Northern Territories Fisheries Department. As it was our intention to eventually enter Tipperary Waters Marina, we were required to have our hull inspected and treated for foreign species mussels and crabs. The Aquatic Biosecurity Unit consisted of 3 very entertaining gentlemen, one of which was the diver. Equipped with an underwater microphone and camera the diver completed his inspection by disinfecting all seawater pipes such as inlets, outlets and pumps. Said lines were not to be used for the next 10 hours. The service was free and we were issued with a clearance certificate that then allowed us into a Darwin marina.

Hybreasail awaiting inspection behind us.

Aquatic Biosecurity Unit

Disinfecting the ins and outs

Cullen Bay Marina lock, in she goes.

Free at last to roam the streets of Darwin, we teamed up with our boat buddies from sv Shakti and Hybresail for a cafe lunch. Then a roam around town and shopping for fresh produce.

What a charming city! Walking and cycle paths line the foreshores, parklands and points of interest dot the landscape. Burney soon started noting upcoming events and researching locations for outings.
– The Darwin Festival had an array of free and ticketed cultural events filling the following fortnight.
– “Pitch Black 18” featured Australian and international military aircrafts, old and very new, including Hornets. For many days we heard, felt and saw them thundering around the skies.
– Deckchair Cinema had a variety of new arthouse films showing under the stars (with the occasional possum running along the top of the screen)
– Indigenous Art Exhibitions

Spiegel Tent

Dusk at the Deckchair Cinema waiting for our movie

The long history of the cinema.

NT Women recognised along a mosiac walk

Botanical Gardens

Rufous Owl roosting in the canopy.

August 1st
But our time was not our own, really. We had a huge to-do-list. Firstly, time to clean her hull and antifoul. Mindful of the tides, we took advantage of the first opportunity in August and wended our way towards “Spot On”  haul out. It was our quickest turn around on the hard. Hauled out on Wednesday and splashed back early Saturday morning. We flogged ourselves! During this bout of frenzied work, we also had our first potential buyers come visit. While Hans continued to undercoat the hull, Burney took the husband and wife team through Brahminy’s systems, interior layout and sailing history. It was interesting to hear that they had seen us tidied up alongside the Quarantine pontoon and had checked out her lovely lines with friends as they came towards the marina lock.

Now to wend our way up the creek.

Slings in place, up

Travel-lifted to our work station with a dirty hull

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Living on the Hard, but the antifoul is done!!

Splash back into the creek

Back in the water and anchored at Fannie Bay fpr a couple of days, we saw 2 rallies depart for Indonesia.

The Sail Indonesia 2018 Rally and the Darwin to Ambon Race.

A couple of the yachts we recognised from east coast cruising some years previous.

Their adventures were beginning.

Darwin Sailing Club at Fannie Bay

That’s Epicurus in the Sail Indonesia Rally

And they’re off!! Next stop Kupang

Dressed all over

Ambon Race

Monday 6th

In quick succession, we moved into a marina and Hans bought a car!

Moving into the marina was rather a new experience as we were having our first lock manoeuvre. Danni, the lockmaster from Tipperary Waters with whom we had met while in Dilli, was still on holidays. So it was with a little apprehension, we gingerly approached Francis Bay, picked our way between moored vessels and found the narrow lock gates.

2 rear gate closes us into the pen

1 Approaching the lock gates

3 Note the different levels

4 Up we go as water is pumped into the pen

5 Out we motor

6. Looking back at the water levelling pump

We berthed near Shakti.

Before returning to Australia, Hans had been researching cars. With his choice already made, a i30 Hyundai wagon, he started targeting Darwin’s car yards. Done!

Tuesday 7th

Interior

turbo diesel 2014

Then he bought a trailer. ✔️
Hired a storage facility ✔️
And we started packing and emptying Brahminy of our accumulated gear ✔️

More potential buyers came to view her. 2 in succession. Still we plugged away at the to-do-list: cleaning, painting, polishing.

In the meantime, Shakti and Hybresail departed Darwin to commence their tour east exploring the bays and anchorages around Goulburn Islands and along Arnhem Land. The catamaran Surfari was also on the market but remained anchored in Fannie Bay flying her for sale signs.

Invariably, we overdid it. Our fatigue levels allowed a local lurgy to infect our respiratory systems and felled us, unceremoniously. But it was okay! The jobs were done. We could afford to finally surrender and take it easy.Right?

No? But wait, the folk who saw Brahminy Too while we were on the hard, we returning for a longer visit….
Then, we were off to consider the challenges of careening her at the Dinah Beach Sailing Club for a pre-purchase survey.

Game on!

Careening poles at low tide

Fenders and plank slide up and down with the tide and weights help hold us tilted toward the poles when we are high and dry.

Next morning there we were careening

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

tide retreats

Will they?

Won’t they?

 

Last leg: Dili to Darwin

Fare thee well. Huge statue of Christ, not unlike its famous counterpart in Rio de Janeiro; but this one was standing on a globe. A flight of stairs passed 14 Stations of the Cross

7am and we dropped the mooring line on July 22nd.

It was still early light as Timor-Leste time had us still in the dark at 6am, our usual departure time. Hybreasail was left behind as they had changed their plans and would follow the following day. Fortunately the unfriendly conditions of the previous day which had 20 knot head-on winds had abated. Taking advantage of the east ebbing tide and light conditions, we motor sailed passed the Christo Rei statue and east. Ever east for the next 100+ nm to the little island, Pulau Jaco on the most eastern tip of Timor-Leste.
From there it was 250nm to the western shore of Bathurst Island. Possibly a 50 hr passage before we could give Brahminy Too  and ourselves a proper rest. In the meantime, friends Nick and Erica on Jepeda IV who we had met in Rebak Marina, Langkawi ( Malaysia) had left Tual the same morning. We hoped to raise them on the HF radio scheds once we were in Timor seas. In Darwin, Rosi and Mike from Shakti were trying to track us using a special app called Find Ship.

The wind changed from port to starboard. Tacking in a straight line?

Mt. Supaun Besar

As previously experienced the high roughly hewn peaks of the coastline played havoc with the winds. Near the 1,100 m peak of Mt. Supaun Besar the winds dithered from port to starboard till Hans decided to lower the mains’l and wait and watch. Finally, we discovered there was almost an hourly pattern as the winds strengthened from the north east slowly died, headed us then came in from the south-eastern quarter. With the mainsail held in the midline and setting the genoa either on the port or starboard side, we found that while we primarily held a rhum line, it was tacking without moving the wheel.

Around 5pm of the first day we had one of the rally boats, sv Colie a few miles behind with sv Anastasia 20 miles astern. We would form a loose team of buddy boats holding morning and afternoon radio contact on our journey to Darwin. The night held no dramas. 10-12knot winds from the south east and a partial moon for the first half of the evening. We were reaching towards the little island, Pulua Jaco on the north eastern tip of Timor where the Banda and Timor Seas met.

July 23rd

A cross-hatching of wide lumpy swell and white foamed waves.

24 hrs after bidding Dili adieu we were into a washing machine of lumpy swell, the Jaco Gymkhana. A narrow strait between the islands, backwash and big sea swell met on a course of watery obstacles sending Brahminy  bronco pitching and bucking. Fortunately, as Burney had read, it was only an hour of “minor events”. The main attraction was the 250 nm crossing to the western coastline of Bathurst Island. Initially, a southward bound current gave our easting trackline a favourable bend toward the Tiwi Islands north of Darwin. The general roll came from the south-east as it headed to a hazy profile of Timor Island merging into a salty vagueness astern. Later, our chartplotter track diverted. A struggling series of tacks to avoid turning north toward the Indonesian island,  Pulua Leti testified to presence of the current . The winds gusted to 23knots from the SSE while we crabbed south-east. The mains’l held a single reef while the genoa was furled out only to the 2nd reefing dot on the sail. Our speed remained a conservative 4-5 knots with the engine only revving above idle to assist the autopilot as we steered high to the wind.

Bathurst Island in Australian waters was our first goal.

For a few hours we sailed. No engine throbbed but the Timor Sea was noisy as Brahminy Too lunged and breached in rough swell. Her great underbelly sundering row after row of waves dispersing sprays that splintered droplets into the air and pelleted the water surface in crystalline peaks. Whooshing and slapping,  thumping,  shimmering and tinkling.  The decks were awash. The gunnels streaming. Occasionally,  a cascade drummed the cockpit canopy. Ole B2 was up for the challenge, we were but observers. While our logbook continued to record latitudes remaining within the 8° band, the longitudinal coordinates crept from 125° to 128°. 130° was the winning number. (Darwin: 12° S, 130° E)
By July 24th midmorning, after a peaceful however slow night, we realised we wouldn’t reach our destination by Thursday 26th. Our calculations had not included current drag. Indeed none had mentioned it to us. Friday was a public holiday, the Darwin Show weekend. We would be charged extra by the  Quarantine inspector. The normal rate was $280, more if the inspection went into overtime. $ching,  $ching.

25 July Look at that track!!
But we’re getting there.

The chartered depths indicated a rise from contours of 3,000 meters to shallow shoals of 90 – 19 meters. That was approximately the demarcation for Australian waters. A curios section contained in a red box on our chartplotter had no information. Was it inadequately surveyed?
It was in this area, we had our first flyover by a Border Force aircraft. Within minutes a voice came over the VHF radio politely requesting we changed from Channel 16 to 72. We hadn’t experienced this since sailing to Lizard Island in 2015. The usual identification questions were answered and our eta. A little later, sv Anastasia was called. We would have this contact again the following day(s). [Before departing Dili, we had notified Border Force in Darwin of our impending arrival. The required minium of 96 hrs prior notice had been fulfilled. Fortunately, with internet such prerequisites are no longer onerous or expensive. Contact the website for The Department of Home Affairs/maritime , send an email to yachtreport@homeaffairs.gov.au and then download the 5 page official documentation necessary for clearance into our country of origin.] The next flyover was within the hour, however much to Burney’s delight it was Frigate birds!

Border Force

Frigate Birds

Having abandoned the hope of a speedy arrival we let Pk, the Perkins diesel engine, rest. For 24 hrs,  we sailed allowing the vagaries of the wind and current govern our progress. We reefed-in when conditions suggested caution and shook them out when all was stable. Unlike our sailing buddies on Shakti and Surfari, we encountered no storms or very strong winds. Indeed the further we crossed the Timor Sea the lighter they became and always variations in degrees within the south-eastern quarter, ESE to SSE. Burney’s pre-cooked meals punctuated the day until all fresh meat and vegetables had been depleted. The last of the fruit and banana cake and the forbidden popcorn and nuts were snacked upon. Only the dried and tinned reserves would carry us into the port authorities inspection.

A spinner dolphin showed us its belly

Playing by our bow wake

Approaching Bathurst Island. 10.4 nm

When the 26th of July dawned we were approaching the south-western corner of Bathurst Island with our yellow Quarantine flag aflutter. Eventually,  the low lying profile of land rose above the hazy horizon. Finally an uninterrupted rest after 4 days at sea was within sight as a pod of zippy little Spinner Dolphins sliced through our bow wake. A heart-warming welcome. We had not entered Darwin as anticipated for the 26th but a quiet anchorage tucked around behind Point Fawcett.
Hans had sent a message to Border Force via his satellite phone notifying them of our delayed arrival as required. Shortly after we were both surprised to hear an unfamiliar ringtone. Never before had anyone phoned via our satellite tethering device. It was a very charming woman from the said government body notifying us of the extra charges we would incur by officially entering on a public holiday weekend and clearly endorsed holding off until Monday. She even suggested the preferred anchorage in Fannie Bay! Well pleased, Hans concurred. Our altered eta for port clearance would be Monday July 30th. More messages were sent via sat. phone to our nominated contact people: Elaine (friend) and Martin (family).
Gladly, with G&T’s in hand, we enjoyed the red cliffs, long white sandy beaches and the low green coastal scrub of the bay. Terns squawked when passing, while battalions of Frigate birds glided silently overhead. Come the sunset, a pair of large muscular dolphins languidly showed as a dark silhouette on the reflected orange rippled surface of the sea to our west. A haze hung over the full moon rising obscuring it from view till long after it ascended. Tranquility.

Radar Hill gaining more definition as we close the gap.

3am Friday July 27th.
Yes, another day at the helm. With the big Northern Territory tides, the skipper wanted to take advantage of the favourable currents. After assisting with the anchor retrieval, the grumbling first mate was appeased by having a tad more sleep before her daybreak watch. Our clocks had been altered to local time. A Darwin dawn was at 7am and on this particular day, it was a sombre grey affair. The distant aft-quarter view from the cockpit had a rain-laden bank of cloud showering onto the green horizon line. As Brahminy Too  left the Tiwi Island group of which Bathurst was one astern and crossed the expanse of water called Beagle Gulf towards Darwin, we speed along at 6 knots with only 14 knots of wind from the north east. Our 50 nm passage was drawing to a close with the desired coordinates having reached 12°S 130°E now registering on the chartplotter. Our sailing companions on sv Hybreasail with whom we held regular HF radio schedules had ultimately decided to follow us towards Darwin and not follow the line of Indonesian islands to Saumlaki. They were half way across the Timor Sea inquiring about refueling possibilities on Bathurst Island? But wind and tides assisted them instea.
As expected our progress was hampered when the tide turned. By morning tea with full sails and motor running we were logging only 3.8 knots. It was from 7 nm off that we started to identify a landmark. It was the lighthouse of Charles Pt. on Cox Peninsular west of Darwin Port. The occasional high speed fishing weekender cut a wash across an otherwise millpond calm sea. A few dolphins ignored us. Then we heard from Mike the Shakti skipper. their news about Erica and Nick on Jepeda IV shocked us to the core!! They had to abandon ship and were making their way on a rescue cargo boat.

Erica wrote:

How quickly life can change. A couple of days ago I posted that we were on our way to Darwin. And now we are aboard a general cargo vessel bound for Singapore.-A seven day cruise. But not a happy one. Yesterday morning our beautiful Jepeda IV ended her life. We were sailing along very happily in a good 20 knot breeze with a 2-3 metre sea. I was on the helm and Nick was sleeping. I heard a loud bang and looked up to see the jib furler, with reefed jib swinging out the starboard side of the boat. I shouted to Nick and by the time he made it out to the foredeck it had gathered such a force that it was impossible to get it in. The jib furler is one of the mainstays of the mast. We furled the main sail but the forces of nature were too strong and the mast came crashing down over the pilot house taking out solar panels, the davits, Bob, cockpit awning and with the continual surging of the waves the pounding motion soon had all of the cockpit destroyed. This took out all our electrical and navigation equipment. The top of the mast was still attached at the shrouds on the foredeck , stretching over the pilot house and this force damaged chainplate connections. The mast is very heavy and also damaged the liferails. All this in about twenty minutes. We were devastated at this scene but still felt it was reparable. So we lashed everything as securely as we could and continued to motor towards Darwin. By this time half of the mast with furled sail attached, the jib furler with flowing jib were stretched out behind us like a sea anchor.

Jepeda IV before she was de-mast and left adrift

But then the second axe fell. We had filled up with fuel in Tual and this was filtered twice and then 
run through the fuel polisher for 24 hours to make sure it was free from contaminants. After a short time the motor began to hunt as though it was starving for fuel. We checked the fuel pump and all was clean. After bleeding the engine , it was running again but the same thing happened after just a few minutes running. Nick changed the fuel filters even though they had been in for just two days but alas, the motor failed to run. It seems that the fuel has had something added to it to make a litre go further. Whatever it was did not agree with our engine and we were left adrift on a very unfriendly sea. It was soon obvious that we were going nowhere and was impossible to get a tow to Darwin. David (son) was our go to man as we had lost all communication except the use of the inReach. By activating our Epirb which was our last resort, the only choice you get is to abandon ship. After much heart wrenching the decision was made to do this and after rocking and rolling and no sleep, twenty hours later we were uplifted to IVS Phinda , a 180 metre general cargo vessel en route to Singapore. I’ve always wanted to have a real cruise and I guess this is it. 
The uplift was a dangerous and skillful manoeuvre by the captain of Phinda as he has to get his big vessel close enough to our out of control boat in big seas. After a few attempts we managed to secure ropes at the stern and a rope ladder 20-30 feet was swung over the side for us to climb aboard. I felt every one of my 72 years by the time my feet hit the deck and that with the emotion of seeing Jepeda looking very sad and then being set adrift, brought me totally undone. Where to from here? Singapore in seven days and we haven’t thought past that. We are both very sad but also,very grateful to be safe on board Phinda, where we are being treated like first class passengers. The damage was caused when a relatively new stainless steel turnbuckle snapped in half. No way to even foresee such a happening and unbelievable that it would happen on the day we had engine failure. So ends our journey.

The last leg

We were much more fortunate. The next tide favourably saw us into Fannie Bay.

Australia, we had arrived!

The first of several beautiful Fannie Bay sunsets

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Darwin to Dili Yacht Race

July 17th saw the first of the contenders approaching the finish line. Hans had taken the bicycle for a spin to the Christo Rei statue on Fatucama Peninsula and was in a good position to see what turned out to be  the racing yacht sv Antipodes. Owner Geoff Hill’s 72ft yacht Antipodes although first over the line actually arrived a day later than he expected. It had been almost a “millpond” crossing the Timor Sea. Later with our alarm horn at the ready, Burney stood on the foredeck greeting the crew while Anne and Brian took their dinghy to greet them. Cruising along the coast was the Australian Navy and a Timor-Leste Maritime vessel. Whether they were also part of the greeting Committee or not, we never really established. The crew were predominantly Philliphino with an English navigator by the name of Allen. The yacht although Hong Kong based has travelled from one race meet to another in the Asian circuit. They will soon return to Darwin to compete in the Darwin-Ambon Race which departs August 4th.

Hans had a good view from Cape Fatucama, at the eastern end of the bay,

Antipodes first to arrive

Greeting committee

Anne and Brian from Hybresail, Antipodes mid photo and Aus Navy on horizon line

Over the next couple of days the little Dili harbour filled with more arriving contestants. The last of the boats arrived on the evening of Wed. the 18th. sv Colie was so keen to to rest and imbibe of a few beverages they chose to ignore Hans’ warnings that they were anchored very close to the port’s wharf. The next morning while they slept we watched a very skilled tugboat skipper nudge a tanker into to dock near Colie.

Colie near the port wharf

The tanker dwarfed Colie

This year’s event set off on the 14th with a slow start due to tide and wind. For weeks the south-easterlies had been blowing hard across the Timor Sea but not that week. We were hoping for kind conditions for our trip on a reciprocal course.

A few Darwin to Dili race boats

So when did these races begin?
It began when a small number of sailors from the Cruising Yacht Association of the NT in Darwin began a yacht race from Darwin to Dili in what was then Portuguese Timor. Six yachts participated in the 1973 Race, taking 4-5 days to reach Dili.
This coincided with the survivors of “Sparrow Force” conducting their first reunion in Timor since WWII. (see previous blog re Aus troops in Timor)

While 1974 saw 25 yachts compete, any further participation was cancelled during the years of Indonesian occupation. Apart from a small goodwill rally when Timor-Leste gained independence in 2002, the annual event really only became entrenched from 2010 with the East Timorese Government taking the initiative and developing an ongoing tourism opportunity known as Sail Timor-Leste. Many boats continue on to Kupang to join the Sail Indonesia Rally which would leave from Darwin shortly thereafter.

The crew of Antipodes

All the skippers in the race and the rally returning to Darwin.

On the afternoon of the 19th, all the Sail Timor-Leste team and contestants gathered at the Office for Tourism for the presentations. El Misti, Hybreasail and Brahminy Too were included even though we had joined the rally from another port. Surprisingly, a rare shower of rain had most participants scampering for shelter but the festivities continued with traditional dancing, awards and gifts. After a delicious evening meal many stayed on for the dancing. Many of the prizes included a cash reward, however traditionally the winning boats gift the prize money to a West Timorese charity, of their choice.

Traditional Dancers

Gifts for everyone

Having been permitted to join the rally, we also enjoyed the more streamline one-stop-shop for CIQP clearance in and checking out procedures. Although the turn-around period wasn’t as quick as was foretold, we didn’t have to find transport or Government offices.
A few of the yachts were returning to Darwin. Antipodes would enter the Darwin to Ambon Race due on August 4th, this year. Our boat was being loosely accompanied by 2 other vessels while Hybreasail elected to linger longer then possibly head to Saumlaki for a better angle to approach either Darwin or Gove. (Although, that plan changed.) Other boats would visit the neighbouring Atauro Island for a day of snorkelling and/or travel south west to Oecusse for a regional visit. At least one vessel was joining the Sail Indonesia in Kupang after visiting Oecusse.

Aus ambassador to Timor-Leste presented the award to Allen from Antipodes

 

First Prize

 

Dili and the Democratic Republic of Timor-Leste

 

 

Traditional Sacred House

Timur was Malay for east. 
Leste meant east in Portuguese. 
So that would translate to East East.

Before colonialism, Timor consisted of some 60 small feudal kingdoms. Two domineering rulers enjoyed allegiance from those kingdoms. Roughly, an east west split. During that era, the island was reported as part of the Chinese and Indian trading networks, and in the 14th century was an exporter of aromatic sandalwood, slaves, honey, and wax. It was the relative abundance of sandalwood in Timor that attracted European explorers to the island in the early 16th century.

Brahminy Too was just to port of the cannons threat

Note the Portuguese ship on the wind vane of the old Roman Catholic Church, Motael

For the Portuguese, East Timor remained little more than a neglected trading post and goal until the late nineteenth century, with minimal investment in infrastructure, health, and education. While Sandalwood remained the main export crop, coffee exports became significant in the mid-nineteenth century. Indeed, we enjoyed some fine local coffee beans that came from self-propagated trees from the old stock, now grown wild.

Timor’s involvement in WWII

With the spread of WW11 across South-east Asia in 1942, Dutch and Australian soldiers arrived on the shores of Timor with scant regard for the Portuguese sovereignty. Shortly, thereafter the Japanese invaded ignoring Portugal’s claim of neutrality.

Timor’s rugged terrain offered ideal conditions for guerrilla warfare, but the early success of these operations was made possible by the support of the Timorese people, who provided food and shelter, ponies for carrying heavy equipment, acted as porters and guides, and helped set up ambushes. Some took up arms themselves and fought alongside the Australians. Many Timorese were executed by the Japanese for providing assistance to the guerrillas, especially when the allied forces departed.

Plaque in the Dare Memorial cafe

Palácio do Governo, Constructed in the late 1950s to the early 1960s to be the Governor’s Palace of the Portuguese administration. With independence in 2002, it became Government Palace for the office of the Prime Minister of the country.

Following the end of World War II and Japanese surrender, Portuguese control was reinstated. Known  to the rest of the world as Portuguese Timor since landing in 1515, that era ended 28 November 1975 after a military coup in Portugal in 1974 which opened new perspectives for the colonies.

Meanwhile the UDT party (União Democratica Timorense, Timorese Democratic Union) staged a coup in Dili on 11 August 1975, a brief civil war followed while the Portuguese administration withdrew to nearby Atauro Island. FRETILIN (Frente Revolucionária do Timor-Leste Independente, Revolutionary Front for an Independent East Timor), won the civil war and declared independence on 28 November 1975.

Unfortunately nine days later, it was invaded and occupied by Indonesia. Oecusse had already been occupied in June of 1975 with the western borders of East Timor being secretly invaded in October. Indonesian paratroopers descended on Dili, a landing fleet arrived and soon executions took place on Dili wharf. On July 17th, 1976, Indonesia annexed East Timor, making it the 27th province of Indonesia with Dili as its capital.

Appallingly Australia,  Britain and America (strongly) supported the Indonesian occupation as they assumed (incorrectly) that Fretilin had communist allegiances. Indonesia, rich in petroleum and strategic minerals, and emphatically anti-Communist, was possibly deemed too valuable a friend by the West to risk offending it for having committed aggression against so minor a land and people.

With the wealth of these nations providing military resources to track by air and land by ship, forces swept across Timor. Indonesia banned the press so only edified information reached foreign shores. One may recall  the killing of five Australian-based newsmen at Balibo, East Timor, on October 16, 1975. A deliberate act and not as a consequence of cross-fire during Indonesian-led attack.

Within 4 yrs of the Indonesian invasion, their own statistics showed a reduction in population by 23%. It was genocide.
Any local resistance  was pacified with a campaign of “encirclement and annihilation”.

Within the population there was some division with pro-independence groups clashing with pro-Indonesian supporters. Indeed some West Timorese were brought to Dili to “encourage” accepting Indonesia as their reigning government. It was during one such clash in the Motael Church that Sebastião Gomes was killed in 1991.

The Church de Santo António de Motael, the oldest Roman Catholic church in East Timor was rebuilt in 1955 in the old Portuguese style. This church was an important place in the story of the fight for Timorese independence

 Gomes’ funeral procession to Santa Cruz Cemetery attracted thousands, but resulted in the Santa Cruz Massacre.

Also known as the Dili Massacre, was the shooting of at least 250 East Timorese pro-independence demonstrators in the Santa Cruz cemetery in the capital, Dili, on 12 November 1991. It was a peaceful demonstration, the mourners were unarmed. Now commemorated as a public
holiday it’s remembered as one of the bloodiest days in their history, one which finally drew worldwide attention to their 25 year struggle, starvation and torture. (Footage of the shootings was smuggled out of the country)

Statue opposite church in remembrance of that horrific day

Santa Cruz cemetery presents the ornately beautiful graves for which the Portuguese and Timorese were famous.

We visited the Santa Cruz cemetery. There’s also an over-riding sense of sadness (and also outrage) as Burney wept near the graves of children, some 3 yrs of age, some only a day old.

In 1999, following the United Nations-sponsored act of self-determination, Indonesia relinquished control of the territory. East Timor became the first new sovereign state of the 21st century on 20 May 2002

Now liberation of  their people from poverty awaits.

Christo Rei: A gift from the Suharto Indonesian Government  in the hope to appease East Timorese and pacify their quest for independence. Ironically it was built to the height of 27 meters, remember East Timor was Indonesia’s 27th region.

Public buildings, schools and clinics were destroyed when the Indonesians left East Timor.

---

 

 

 

 

 

 

Timor, west to east.

Burney, bemo and a rooster

Does Kupang, formerly known as Koepang, have character?
Has Kupang been spoilt?

Memorial

Details tell a story of struggle

Years of visitors arriving from Darwin to Kupang as their first sailing destination/port in Indonesia has possibly taught the local touts to overcharge. Everything could be explained away as: “it’s only $5” – to watch your dinghy! No thank you.
Hans decided to choose one “beach assistant”. Ralli was his name and Hans would only deal with him thus fending off the fellows waiting under the jetty for our dinghy to land. Through Ralli a new low maintenance starter battery was sourced, correct costs for taxis and bemos (mini bus transport) acquired and regular assistance with drawing the inflatable up the steep beach provided. Thank you, Rallie.

(In 1859, with the Treaty of Lisbon, Portugal and the Netherlands divided the island between them. West Timor became Dutch, with its colonial seat at Kupang, and East Timor became Portuguese, with its governing seat in Dili.)
Given that past history, Burney struggled to find any noteworthy remnants while walking the town streets.

Fortunately, an English woman had painted several murals on older buildings giving some Street Art charm to the harbour side.
Wending her way uphill, older streets were lined with grand shady trees and gardens became farmlets as the neighbouring suburbs felt more like kampungs of yesteryear. The friendly “Hello mister” resonated in her wake but often she would head it off with “Hello laki laki (boy) . What’s your name? How old are you?”

Steps built during the Dutch era

The anchorage was uncomfortable. The winds piped up for most of the day making embarking and disembarking from the dinghy hazardous as chop and swell made the hull and inflatable collide and pitch. The sandy beach had breaking waves making landings, at times challenging. The night time sleep was disturbed by the occasional slap and roll.

Sundowners on Hybresail

Did we linger longer than was necessary for a reprovision and clearance procedures? No.
While we have discovered that every Immigration office varied slightly from regency to regency, we were a little surprised to have a tonnage tax for our vessel. That was a new one, not that it was expensive, just odd. Were we displacing more water than another? Were we creating wear and tear on their seas?

Hindu

Catholic Churches through the town.

July 10th, together with Hybreasail, we rattled the chain and set off at 6am. It was to be an easy day at the office with occasionally favourable winds to sail and wind shadows where we motored. With the desalination unit back in good working order Hans filled our tank and the spare water containers.

Dawn departure

The last of Indonesia and the diminished flag

Striking mountain peaks crowded the grey sandy shorelines. White bright chalk or sand on a distant escarpment drew our attention as we approached a slight indention along that roadstead at Tungung Gemuk, our anchorage for the evening. Hopeful, ever hopeful, that an annoying swell would abate come evening, Burney watched and waved to the villagers foraging the rocky shoulders and fringing reef exposed with the afternoon low tide. Free range pigs competed for the seafood treasures along the shore.

White patches in escarpment

Approaching the point.

Free range pigs on the beach

Next stop Oecusse:
As indicated on the map, a parcel of land midway along the coast belonged to East Timor, not Indonesia. Burney questioning the background struggled with poor internet to sate her curiosity. Variously known as Oecussi, Ocussi, Oekussi, Oekusi, Okusi, Oé-Cusse), formerly Ambeno and Oecussi-Ambeno, let’s call it Oecusse was among the first parts of the island of Timor on which the Portuguese established themselves in 1515, and was thus usually considered the cradle of East Timor. By the 1700‘s most of West Timor was left to Dutch forces, who were conquering what was today Indonesia. In a trade Portugal gave  Flores to the Dutch in exchange for keeping Timor-Leste. The previous European administration transferred to Dili which the Portuguese still held and Oecusse was left to fare for itself.

The curious corner of Oecusse

– So what happened with Oecusse?
Factions of Eurasians, the Topasses who had migrated  from Portuguese Larantuka on Flores held the outpost. Thereafter bouts of chiefdom infighting in the precinct made the enclave  undesirable and partially forgotten. When a treaty between Holland and Portugal was later agreed upon, Oecusse remained a Portuguese dominion which then fell under East Timor jurisdiction come final independence. Those many mountain folds hid waterfalls, caves and jungles worshiped for centuries by the inhabitants as sacred. It was in these mountainous caves that the folk took refuge during the Japanese invasion and the Indonesian occupation.

Jagged ridges dwarf Hybreasail

Oecusse aurora come daybreak

Back to sailing:
The next couple of days followed a similar pattern. Early rises, short day hops and rolly anchorages. That was until we entered the sheltered harbour of Gurita. Surrounded by hills then ranks of peaks, a finger width of harbour lay secluded midway between the coastal run of Kupang to Dili. The channel inlet was guarded by tall lateral beacons indicating drying reef. One rocky arm of the opening supported a substantial ferry wharf, the other a couple of thatched dome huts on sand. Mangroves and a fishing platform edged the bay with access to an inner basin bridged by reef at lowtide. Marina-calm! It was however very deep. With only limited choices we let all our chain out, 60 meters in 20 meters of depth and set the anchor-watch. Only a short distance astern was reef. [We were not far from Balibo, the site of those horrendous  massacres of 1975 which were reported by 5 Australian journalists (murdered) but kept from public media]

Guide book map of anchorage

Google Earth map of area

It was Thursday, July 12th and Anne’s birthday. Time for an afternoon gathering and a tune or two on Hybreasail.

Starboard bank of anchorage

Port bank

Regional hut style

Fishing net platform

First log entry Friday July 13th.
3.30am Departed Gurita following our track out and spotlightling for fishing boats. Conditions light with some katabatic breeze assisting. Hazy with the Milky Way dusting a swathe of night sky and several constellations sprinkled about we motor sailed towards a dawn. Hans had decided that if conditions remained light we’d continue on to Dili. A 55 nm leap. Another catamaran, El Misty, that was already moored in Dili harbour had experienced 25-35 knot winds “on the nose” and counter-current earlier in the week. What would we encounter?

Fighting the Indonesian Through Flow

Indeed, when we were 9nm from the “corner” our progress was slowed to a struggling 1.7 knots. We were 5 miles off shore in very deep water, 2000 meters. Attempting to escape the current we veered closer to the coast gaining speed the nearer we approached. Approximately 2.5 nm off shore we found “the sweet spot” and skimmed along at 6 knots of s.o.g. with virtually no wind. Whilst our bow yawed to land and the steep slopes of Carimbala Point,  our vector had us seaward, a difference of more than 30°.

Inur Carimbala (Point)

Once we rounded the coast it was slow progress creeping eastward towards Dili. We were in direct line against the current which we later discovered ebbed east. Having decided that entering the harbour after sunset was ill advised, we made a few attempts at anchoring along the roadstead. Steep inclines, growling pebbly terrain near the ruins of the Portuguese Ai Pelo prison gave poor holding and untenable swell had us re-anchoring 3 times at a different location near the Liquica village before we settled uncomfortably near Buku Acolla. But not for long… Come 1am Hans chose to go off shore and “stooge around” in light conditions till dawn. Remarkably the current that had held us at-bay was non-existent. Thinking it would take hours to cover the remaining 11nm we were actually slipping along at 3-4 knots with a reefed genoa. Oh contraire!

Ai Pelo was built during the Portuguese colonial days, primarily as a remote place of exile to send criminals and political dissidents from  various parts of Portugal’s empire, in particular from Macau. The old prison  became a Japanese Army base, and was eventually bombed by Allied Forces, reducing its walls to its present broken state.

Black Rock Resort and cafe at Liquica, located in between Maubara and Dili, was Portugal’s first capital within its Timorese colony.

Waiting for first light to enter Dili Harbour

Dili dawn

Well hello Dili or is that Rio?

See you in Dili.

The yellow triangle represents its prior colonial history, the black triangle represents the prior obscurantism, while red is symbolic of the struggle for liberation, and the white star is symbolic of peace.

Obscurantism = the practice of deliberately preventing the facts or full details of something from becoming known.

 

Come on down To Kupang

Having watched the weather for many weeks we had our misgivings about sailing to Kupang. The trade winds blowing across the Timor Sea had been particularly harsh reaching 25-35 knots. Kupang, on the south west extremity, appeared to bear the brunt of it! Fortunately, the landmass of Timor was relatively mountainous and the wind patterns indicated a wind-shadow along sections of the coast. It was decided that the port town was to be our clearance port or “checking-out” location. We were leaving Indonesia, as our allotted 6mths was approaching expiry date. Kupang was (usually) the first port for yachts travelling from Darwin to Indonesia, however the reciprocal course (for us) to Darwin would have been frightful with strong head-on winds. Our latest plan… what were we up to, Plan: A, B, C…. K(?) was to journey north-east along West Timor to East Timor and check into Dili. The “Darwin to Dili” rally was due to arrive mid-July. Several of the boats would return to Darwin after the festivities. We would sail either with them or with some of their insights from previous experience.. But first, “come on down to Kupang”, only 130nm.

Route Plan to Kupang then Dili

As mentioned, Ferry and Marlouke were joining us for the passage. Having a pair of keen crew to assist Hans with sails and hauling lines gave us both a reprieve from back-damaging deck work. Ferry had some experience having sailed little Lasers on the Ijsselmeer in Holland and he had the odd adventure on a tall ship cruise. Marlouke was just adventurous.

6th July
Our dawn departure was with dolphin escort as we coasted west along the Sawu Sea with the ebbing tide. Near the islands in Pantar Strait where the Indonesian Through Flow ran south, many peaking eddies and confluence  textured the water surface. With scant wind we enjoyed 6knots riding the current. Spilling south out of the straits near Treweg Island and entering the cooler waters of Sawa Sea we were surrounded by fins. Oh my goodness what were they? Everywhere we looked large dolphin-like creatures either lingered on the surface or frolicked in the swell. It was only after long scrutiny, observing their snub melon shaped head, long fins and strong muscular flanks that Burney decided that they were not dolphins per se but Short-finned Pilot Whales. A first for us all! Such huge aggregations were not uncommon in those waters, apparently.

Short-finned Pilot Whales

The day was sunny. The sea twinkled with flashing shards of sunlight. Come 2pm chatting in the cockpit, Burney was aware that a ship some several miles off was rising up off the horizon on a reciprocal course towards us. It was not appearing on our AIS. Giving the autopilot a few degrees to starboard to create a good offing, the chatter continued. Still keeping an eye on the ship, Burney noted that it had changed direction and was again on a collision course. The wake on its bulbous bow was becoming apparent as it drew closer. After making the crew aware of this behaviour, Burney again took diversionary actions. When the ship then again followed her course, Hans was called on deck and photos were taken. With Marlouke’s zoom len we  were we  to ascertain the vessels name. This was very strange and aggressive behaviour. Radioing the Captain on ASTA PERSADA, a tanker without functioning AIS, Hans alerted the Captain of his vessel’s behaviour and questioned his intentions. While they had initially responded, radio silence followed thereafter…? The ship slowed while passing us, then once astern it appeared to stop and turn towards windward. What? Why? Then it remained motionless as we continued south. A very curious encounter. Hans speculated that perhaps the vessel had some difficulty while Burney suggested a poorly behaved helmsman?

A dutch expression had come to mind: “Speak of the devil and you stand on his tail”.

Ferry and Burney had been discussing rogue encounters and piracy while sailing…

Bad Boat: Asta Persada

With a beautiful sunset and possibly the famed “green flash”, Brahminy Too took advantage of the off shore current and katabatic winds skimming parallel to the Timor coast. A fine meal of fresh tuna bought in Kalabahi by Ferry and Marlouke saw us into our 3 hourly late hour watches.
It was an easy night with a partial moon appearing soon after midnight. Both the genoa and mains’l were reefed for the evening so our new deck hands enjoyed sparkling phosphorescents, falling stars and flashing lighthouses while we slowed our progress for a daylight arrival.

1am with a partial moon, it’s a comfort.

From 20nm off we had our catamaran companions on Hybreasail showing on the AIS chartplotter. What a welcoming beacon, that was. By 8am, while anchoring nearby, the figurative became the literary with Anne and Brain waving a welcome from Hybreasail’s aftdeck.
Kupang, we had arrived.

Good morning Hybreasail.

 

 

The Allure of Alor

Spirit house, traditional village, Takpala

The Alor regency has 15 islands of which 9 are inhabited by humans and 1 by deer, Pulua Rusa (deer island).

Now that’s a bit different.

In the Pantar Strait were a few smaller islands with underwater attractions that boasted some 18-42 dive/snorkel sites.

Whilst we had boat jobs to attend to, we managed to enjoy just a few of the many attractions.

View from the bow

View from the cockpit

But first, the repairs. Soon after waking and viewing our anchorage in daylight, Hans set off in the dinghy to the main port. There he found a fellow named Charlez who took him on his motorbike to a battery shop. Also the brass fitting from our watermaker was resoldered, along the way. In the meantime, Burney who remained onboard was approached by a local “tour guide” and go-to-guy, named Akmed. We were later,  to decide, NOT TO USE HIM! Even though we tried to explain that we had some experience with Indonesian fuel prices and touts asking for a bit extra, this fellow was a total rip-off, unreliable and possibly a liar.

Tramp Australia

Sally & Mike

So when we were to meet the charming couple,  Sally and Mike  on mv Tramp Australia, we took their recommendation and contacted Marlon (his father was a Marlon Brando fan). Raymond Lesmana, our Indonesian sponsor and previous rally organisor also recommended Marlon: +6285213714576.
He was to become our main man and master masseur as we both still needed to care for our damaged backs.

Marlon

Recommended by Marlon, Thomas a resident expatriate from Germany, provided help with a few mechanical issues on Brahminy. Later we were to learn that he ran a dive tour business. Once most of our troubles had been resolved, Hans took himself off for a snorkel trip. On board were two young travellers from Utrect, The Netherlands. Of the 2 different locations, the site nicknamed Mike’s Delight impressed them all with it’s diversity of coral species. Fortunately, there was no sign of dynamite damage from poor fishing practices.

Thomas (right)

Dutch couple Marlouke and Ferry

Hans takes a dip

Hans was so enthused with meeting Ferry and Marlouke, he rang Burney and asked if he could bring them home! Like us, they were headed to Kupang. Recently,  they had used Kupang as their base while flying or motorbiking to other destinations. It would be a new experience to have crew for a passage but since we were all “up-for-it”. Plans were hatched for a departure a couple of days later.

Tiny red fish

Many Alorese were of Papuan origin which was reflected in their appearance and in their traditional culture. The Abui people were the largest traditional ethnic grouping on Alor. Whilst there were several tribes within the Abui people, the traditional village of Takpala was considered one of the best villages to visit.

On Wednesday the 4th of July,  we hired a car with driver and Marlon as guide, who answered many of our questions as we ventured out of town towards the north-eastern shores.  The sun sparkled on a calm Benlelang Bay before we ascended the hillside of Takalelang. Set atop a short set of stairs, the village was spread across 12 houses, more or less arranged in single rows upon terraces. The tribal leader and spiritual guide for that community,  Abner, was not in residence when we arrived however we were to be introduced to him later. Around a sacrificial alter (pig) the village members would preform their lego lego dances. Directly above and behind the alter on another terrace were 2 bamboo woven huts which only Abner as spiritual guide could enter. One was predominantly coloured white, the other black.

Spirit house white

Spirit house black

The family houses each had four levels, the basement (below the open-air deck), the open-air deck, then inside the thatch roof were two more levels, one a sleeping quarters and above that a storage area for grain and other staples. (The very large round section of wood acted as a rodent preventer)

The stronger beams and struts were made from a hardwood that would be replaced every 40-50 years

No metal nails only vines and twines.

Cooking below the roof overhang.

Housed in a special dwelling where certain rituals were enacted were 3 drums and various  gamalan gongs. Marlon explained that on Alor the bronze  Moko drums were used as trade in bygone days to purchase slaves. While many were accumulated over the years and became a status symbol giving the owner wealth and position in the social order of a tribe, they were often hidden from plundering. Legend has it that during a certain period of unrest many were buried. Some being lost through misplacement over time, later to be discovered and preserved in a museum. Indeed some 1,000 drums were found hidden underground. From an archeological stand point the kettle drum did not originate from this archipelago, but rather from the Dong Son culture in Vietnam.

Moko drums

These kettle drums functioned as a musical instrument during religious rituals to pray for rain, good harvest or profitable hunting.
While the Moko Drum was approximately 55cm in height,  the Nekara  bronze kettle drum which wasn’t seen at Takpala, was shorter and stouter in girth. Various decorative elements could be mounted on its top, body and/or base. Such ornamentation as stars, geometric patterns, animals, ships, and human figures have been noted on some drums.

Traditional dress

Head-dress and belts for lego lego dances

Another tribe called the Kabola Tribe were on a hillside above the centre of Kalabahi. As we wound our way up the switchbacks we passed groves of teak and candle-nut trees. A small field of cassava plants slightly obscured our view of the harbour before we arrived at Monbang Kampong (village). While their ceremonial huts were similar to the Takpala structures, they prized their use of scared black bamboo. They also used bamboo to make a  ceremonial fire at their alter.

Anti-rodent plates.

Black Bamboo

Friction: rubbing a blade along the creases creates a spark.

A lesson in fire-making at the alter

Soft fabric of this traditional dress is made from bark!

Famously these tribal folk made clothing from the bark of the Ka tree. It’s texture was as soft as felt. We were very grateful that Ivon took time not only to show us their traditional dress but to model it.

It was rather surreal when later the locals started showing me how to exchange photos from our mobiles via Bluetooth.

Old and new collide when we touched our mobiles to exchange photos

Their deity was a female/mother spirit that, when present, came in the evening via the heavens through a large tree. Images of this goddess was found in very monolithic stone carvings around the site.

Mother deity

Male deity – protector

Remains of a totem house

When we left Ivon (Vyonne), smiled with bright betel nut lips, embraced Burney and breathed her blessing touching noses. An experience much appreciated by Burney that would stay with her through many many memories.

Local motifs. The elephant motif had been adopted long ago after traders from India brought elephant tusks and “patol” to the archipelago. (Patol – silk double-ikat cloth from Gujarat).

Finally, because Burney has become fascinated by the various regional motifs used in ikat, we visited a weaving center. Traveling along the shoreline, 30 kms west,  then north-west, we saw from the road the route we had taken by night sailing to Kalabahi. Once at the Ikat Weaving House Gunung Moko, we were to meet Mrs Sariat Libana. The workshop was surrounded by garden producing many of the plants used to provide organic dyes. Indeed, even the very cotton spun into yarn.

We learnt that over 200 natural dyes were used by the weaver community. When Burney had the audacity to imply that some very bright colours looked artificia,l she was quickly directed to their organic sources – young papaya or a tree blossom in their garden.

Cotton grown on site

A kettle of organic material for dye

Tumeric yellow

Mrs Sariat Libana. Some of the works from this weaving centre have been in exhibits internationally.

Dutch Indonesia colonial architecture. It was the Governor’s residence

Thursday, July 5th
While refilling our water containers from the local “fountain” Hans befriended some young fellows who he then took for a fast dinghy ride around the cove. Inflatable boats with outboards remained a fascination, especially when Hans puts it up on the plane by gunning the motor. Yippee, thrill seekers.
Then it was time for a final massage and bidding farewell to Marlon and welcome to Ferry and Marlouke. With an evening of music, fine dining and a beverage or 2, we resigned to our bunks in preparation for an early start and 24 hour passage to West Timor, the extreme south east point of the Indonesian boundaries.

Note the bamboo spout

Fresh water source

Farewell Alor

Hello Crew

 

West to east in 10 days, Cabo das Flores

Flores

While many friends in Australia dealt with winter chills, unseasonal rain and East Coast Lows, we had more favourable conditions. We even managed some romping sails which was an unexpected pleasure. Departing early in the mornings gave us either the assistance of the katabatics whisping down from the mountain ridges or mirror calm dawn exits. Usually around 11am the winds would increase and sometimes to our advantage as we made daily hops along familiar anchorages or sought out new alternatives.

Gili Bodo mooring location the red + marked the spot. see coordinates.

Bicolour Anglefish, blue and yellow

Possibly a Swarthy Parrotfish with Rabbitfish

Having left Labuan Bajo we headed NE to a small island called Gili Bodo or Pulua Sababi on some maps. The anchorage on the seaward side was where we had snorkeled and b-b-qued with sv Sentinel on our 2016 visit, was untenable. North-easterly winds and fringing coral,  no thank you. Instead on the landward side close to a pearl farm we found a serviceable (although very weedy) mooring. The low island held the wind and sea swell at bay while we ventured ashore for a swim.

Gili Bodo pearl farm

The following morning with only approx 35 nm to cover, we arrived in Lingeh Bay a little after midday. Our last encounter there had been overwhelming with 20 or more children “expecting” handouts. With apprehension we prepared a basket of goods to trade, if the opportunity arose. It was our preference to promote a swapping culture rather than encourage “begging” for gifts. Fortunately, only 2 canoes approached, both with young men initiating a trade conversation.

The lads swapped their dugout canoe for a ride in our dinghy in quest of fish.

Came to trade and stayed

While Hans took 2 chaps for a dinghy run to acquire fresh fish, Burney invited Richards onboard. Practicing his command of English, we did practical things like cleaning and filleting the fish and while viewing the boat naming various attributes.  (Using Facebook as a medium we continue to remain in contact.)

Hopefully Richards will have the opportunity to work in the tourist industry.

Time to move on…No lingering at Lingeh.

June 1st
17 Island National Park held fond memories: a couple of bar-b-que sing-alongs came to mind.

2016 beach gathering

The coast and the surrounding area of the town of Riung had become a national conservation area. In fact, the national park consisted of more than 20 smaller and larger islands and encompassed a rich coral-reef ecosystem. We read that 27 different species of coral have been recorded. En route to the same location as 2016, Nunsa Tiga in the vicinity of Riung, we sited dolphins. Large ocean roving types with unusual patchy grey and white colouring. The pristine white sands produced wonderful shades within the blue colour spectrum while coral gardens furthered tinted the view.

Shades of blue

Nunsa Tiga had been discovered. Our isolated anchorage had sprouted a couple of shelter sheds and an amenities block. Day boats brought snorkelers to the adjoining reef and lunched on shore preparing grilled fish on bamboo picnic tables. Nevertheless, come the afternoon, it was our private spot. The reef by the headland receiving a regular flow of current, was rich with marine life and a great diversity of coral. While hovering near the drop-off, Burney saw her first big Cuttlefish with it’s frilled edges changing colour as it propelled over different terrain until disappearing into the gloomy depths. Wow oh wow.

Shelter sheds for the daytrippers

Red-breasted Wrasse

Regal Angelfish

Vibrant green coloured coral

Reef Egrets storked the rocky shores while Collared Kingfishers and Oriental White-eyes called from the beach shrubbery. We, also,  took a dinghy ride to a neighbouring island so Burney could ascertain if the Malaysian Plovers we saw last time were still in residence.

aka Plover island

Upon landing, the piping call of 2 Beach-stone Curlews first caught her attention and indeed scarpering around the dry coral rubble were the tiny plovers.

Beach-stone Curlews

Plover male

Having enjoyed a lay-day, it was June 3rd when we anchored in Ciendeh Bay. Again our day at the office was completed by 2.30pm. Enough time for Hans to stretch his legs wandering around the village. The deep natural harbour and surrounding cliffs made for a very calm anchorage. Numerous squids boats bobbed in the harbour, however Hans was unable to procure any for dinner. While engaging the assistance of a local find fresh fish to purchase (which cost only 3 fish for $5 ), he had a very different conversation. This chap who spoke English quite well had gained his skills while in Australia. Apparently he was apprehended while fishing Ashmore Reef and spent 1 year in a Darwin jail. Now that was not your usual exchange with a local islander!

Headlands protect the natural harbour.

Afternoon light on the surrounding hills above the village.

Squid boats everywhere

With the loud noise of a passing fishing boat, June 4th saw us with West Batu Boga as our desired anchorage. Previously, we had shared the very calm harbour on the eastern side of the point Batu Boga with the rally vessels: Babadudu,  Argonaut and Hybresail in 2016 . In the meantime, Bev from sv Wirraway & Ginny from Wishful Thinking had told us about their experiences tucked into a small bay with a cluster of folk living ashore on the aforementioned western aspect.

Wirraway and Wishful Thinking, 2016

With the prevailing winds, West Batu Boga, a 30nm trip, appeared early along our vector.
Like much of this coastline, steep hills not only provided excellent protection from most directions of wind, they also enabled the keen hiker to gain brilliant vantage points for views across to the Flores Sea. After the clatter of the descending chain ceased to fill our ears, children whooping from the shore was heard.
Before long a single dugout canoe approach with 2 teenage girls. Shortly after another joined us in the cockpit. Since we were struggling with conversation Hans played a few songs on his uke. Then Burney produced a children’s story book depicting Old Macdonald. Always a hit! While Hans strummed the tune, Burney used the pages to illustrate the words while she sang and made ridiculous farm animal sounds. It wasn’t only the toddler who thought it was a hoot, everyone had a laugh. With such a grand performance we were invited ashore.

Brahminy Too at anchor

Hans shared some of our gifts with the children while we were treated to fresh coconut juice. One young woman scaled the palm while another wielded the machete. Around us the level dirt compound was swept free of all debris. Chickens chased each other and pigs rested under shady trees. It appeared that there were several families living in this bay who existed largely by a subsistence lifestyle. Their main request was batteries,  AA for a radio and D size for a fishing boat light. By chance, we did have a few to spare.

A catholic station on the foreshore.

Freshly harvested cocounut

Sitting in recently carved canoes, Hans plays harmonica for the folks.

Come dusk slightly larger motorised fishing boats began to arrive. Though not going ashore, some boats clustered together socialising with each other’s crew while a couple anchored nearby and prepared a pot of food onboard. Apparently this was a regular gathering of an evening. The blat,  blat,  blat of their engines woke us in the dark of night as they returned to their fishing fields off the coast.

The dusk gathering.

Before departing in the morning we had time to explore the fringing reef around our boat. Having read that much of the marine grounds had been severely damaged due to the past practice of cyanide use or dynamite blasting it was encouraging to see regrowth in the midst of coral rubble. Reef fish and coral species were returning and Burney even saw a beautifully coloured mantis shrimp scuttling around broken reef. While in Langkawi, Malaysia we had actually bought and cooked these crustaceans (though not nearly as decorative as this peacock species).

From rubble to regrowth

Orbicular Batfish

Identifying fish maybe more difficult than birds!

From the Coral reef guide book: Mantis shrimp

With yet another visa extension due, our visit to Maumere required us to search out the Immigration Office. Given that the usual anchorage suggested during the yacht rallies was further outside of the administration centre, we headed towards the port where possible town access was more quickly achieved. The afternoon offshore wind headed us as we dodged countless foam moorings littered in deep water. Again we were pleased not to be negotiating these hazards at night.

A fishing boat tethered to a fish attracting device which is tied to a foam mooring block.

Moorings difficult to spot in daylight

The peoples of Flores are almost entirely Roman Catholic Christians, nevertheless our anchorage near the port was in close proximity to the fishing community and their mosques. With Ramadan drawing to a close, the call to prayer or to eat started at 2.30am (through loud speakers). Then departing cargo ships announced their departures with a blaring horn and we felt a very pronounced ground swell even with the “flopper-stopper” deployed. Not a favourable anchorage according to our skipper.

Statue of the Virgin Mary on Nilo hill above our anchorage.

Fortunately, processing our extension would only take 24 hours from application to completion. Thanks to Raymond Desmana, our Indonesian sponsor, we had been advised to contact the local “go to guy”, Konrad. On the day we were to retrieve our passports, Hans booked a car & driver through Konrad.

Maumere was a busy though dusty urban hub with no two of our destinations in close proximity. Although largely rebuilt, much of the township (90 %) had been destroyed when a deadly earthquake occurred in Dec of 1992. The resulting tsunami along the coastline of Flores ran inland as far as 300 meters with wave heights of 25 meters. Great swathes of vegetation was swallowed. Now with large sections of the town’s foreshore protected by a high rockwall, dinghy beaching was very challenging. Even around the port it was precarious,  for either man or inflatable.

Fresh market

Firewood to purchase

With Konrad also assisting, we quickly filled the morning with various destinations successfully: Fresh market,  supermarket,  pharmacy, fuel, gin &  beer and Immigration.

Thank you and good-bye.
With 2 nights of broken sleep, departing for calmer enclaves was the next priority.  Hans  immediately commenced readying the boat while Burney washed fruit and vegies from the market. A little after 1pm, we were under way. With a short 16nm motor-sail across Maumera Bay, we were anticipating a quiet Wodong anchorage.

When the depth sounder can’t cope

There are dozens of shades within the spectrum of the colour blue. The very deep waters off Flores tend towards cobalt and navy blue. Watching the lighter shades  indicating patches of reef between our course and the coconut palm tree coast, we gazed higher into a clear sky blue day before coming under the plume of another active volcano. Cloudless except for Mt Egon’s peak, yellow sulphur gases and grey ash-tinted white puffs issued from a few different vents. Although very active, it was listed as one of the most popular hikes on Flores. Indeed the last major eruption was in 2008 when sections of the trail was covered  with ash and debris. Now, in parts, only cannes of piled stones mark the route. Flores boasts twelve volcanoes suitable for trekking. Memories of Kelimutu National Park with its tri-colored crater lakes  re-emerged. We had visited the district of Ende close to the town of Moni, with other members from the rally. The lakes were in the caldera and were fed by a volcanic gas source, resulting in highly acidic water. The colours of the three lakes changed on an irregular basis, depending on the oxidation levels varying from bright red to brown, through green and blue.

Mount Egon. Its 1671m high summit is formed by a lava dome from which puffs of smoke emerge

Depending on the season, this Mt Egon also sported a lake in its crater, our information told us.

Foreshore

Nestled under its protecting ridge line lay our destination. More specifically, a small cove-like indentation in the coast near a resort called Ankermi Divers Resort.
08*36.39 S
122*28.50 E
After miles of deep water blues, we turned to starboard for the final leg. The depth sounder finally reengaged as we reached the 500ft sounding a half a nautical mile from the beach. Standing on the bow conning for reef, Burney waited to see any sight of colour change. Deep blue remained until Hans started to call 50ft then rising quickly to 27ft (9m) it was time to drop the pick. We were quite close to the shore!

Totally calm. Only the squeal of a pig and the roosters crowing from a homestead hidden behind a grove of coconuts. Fishermen paddled their tiny canoes casting a hand line or spanning a net. Time for a “chillax”. Maybe a day off, too.

Morning view of the resort nestled under the mountains

Detail of resort

Local fishermen paddle their boats

Since we were unable to hire a motorbike anywhere in the area to explore the coastal road or mountain, we went for a snorkel instead.

We heard a boy singing as he paddled his canoe so Hans played him a song.

black and white Twotone Chromis 5cm

Almost invisible Razorfish swimming vertically, pipefish family

A sea urchin with striped echidna-like quills.

Anemonefish group

regrowth and rubble

9 June.
With another dawn departure, we marvelled at the soft colours reflected across the still waters. Random patches of rippled surface joined oily smooth areas. Leaving the mainland behind we slipped through a strait near Pulau Besa and then around the reefed coast of Pig Island (Pulau Babi) noting white sandy beaches and the shallow depths of light turquoise waters. Our final leg was a  42nm day trip to Tangung Gedong. The tail of Snake Island.

Water patterns in the dawn light

[ Originally, before Europeans, this long thin landmass was called Nusa Nipa – snake island. (In those bygone days,  Makassarese and Bugis seafarers from Southern Sulawesi came to trade or entrap folk into slavery.)
It was with a Portuguese expedition crew reaching the island in the early 16th century that it was re- named ‘Cabo das Flores’, which meant ‘Cape of Flowers’. Thought to be of strategic significance for trade, many Portuguese relocated and  married local folk and  then the missionaries soon followed. However, Flores itself was neither a source of valuable spices nor sandalwood. After a long period of struggling with other trade powers, the Portuguese were finally defeated and withdrew themselves to Dili in East Timor in 1769. Renouncing all their spheres of influence in Eastern Indonesia, their remaining enclaves were sold to the Dutch East Indies  administration in 1854.]

Chartplotter image as we depart.

Passing reef and sandy beaches near Pulua Besa

Once clear of the islands, Hans pointed our nose on a direct rhum line. It was to be a
romping conclusion as the typical afternoon wind came in at 11am. With 15-20 knot winds from the east our north-easterly course  took the advantage. Our oversized Genoa furled into the 2nd reef point but with the mains’l still fully billowing we settled into a fine sail and danced over the miles.
Then with a wind shift while the force decreased our speed maintained as some current assistance came to bear. Thank you!
And that was our last day cruising the edge of Flores.

wind

Speed 6.6 knots